How to Photograph Fireworks with Any Camera - Even Your Phone

When you hear the first dull "boom!" in the sky, it's already too late to run for your camera to photograph fireworks. The most beautiful moments usually last just seconds, so preparation is everything.

I’ve been shooting fireworks for years, and I know one thing for sure: a great shot isn’t luck, it’s all about the details. Here’s my handy guide on how to photograph fireworks that includes proven settings to little tricks that make photos truly spectacular.

I also want to share this handy table with different firework types, recommended camera settings, and tips for each:

Fireworks photography isn't about luck. The right location can make your shot spectacular or completely ruin it. That's why I never shoot without being unaware of the shooting spot. Before heading out, I do my homework: I open Google Maps or Google Earth, find the launch site, and analyze the perfect place for taking pics.

• The ideal shooting position;
• Clear sky - no trees, rooftops, or poles blocking the view;
• Cool landmarks to frame the fireworks like bridges or monuments;
• Crowd-free areas.

I’m always looking for excellent foregrounds! A crowd gazing up in wonder or a striking landmark instantly adds life to your shot.

Bonus Tip: Always check the wind direction! Stand downwind, and smoke will ruin your shots after just a few bursts. Instead, position yourself upwind, and let the fireworks drift away from your lens, not into it.

We've all thought "I'll make it just in time!" – until we don't. I learned this lesson when traffic made me miss an entire show, arriving just as the final burst of fireworks faded. Now I arrive 90 minutes early every time. And you know what? I've never regretted such a decision.

It’s important because:

• Get the best spot while others are still parking;
• Check your gear - battery, memory card, settings;
• Change the location if the view isn’t perfect;
• Avoid last-minute crowds;
• Set up the tripod without any rush.

Must-Pack Gear (Even When I Think I Might Not Need It)

• Low light video camera with fully charged battery (and the extra one), as long exposures drain power fast. My choice is Canon EOS R8 with Canon RF100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L lens.
• Bring an empty 32GB+ card - firework photos eat space fast! My choice is SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO.
• Always bring a tripod (even a mini one) – shaky hands ruin firework photos. My choice is SmallRig 71 Camera Tripod.
• Remote or smartphone app (if your camera supports it).
• Headlamp – to see camera buttons in the dark (no phone light needed).
• Microfiber cloth – for wiping off dew, splashes, or dust.
• Jacket or sweater – nights get chilly, especially near water or in the wind.

You can even photograph fireworks on an old DSLR  – the key is having manual controls. Here's my go-to starting setup:

Never use auto mode. Your camera might try to "turn night into day" and you'll get washed-out, overexposed shots.

Even on the sturdiest tripod, pressing the shutter button can cause tiny vibrations. You might not see them, but during long exposures, they blur firework trails, making them look soft or smeared. This is especially noticeable with zoom lenses.

So, I always use one of the two options:

• Remote shutter release (wired, Bluetooth, or infrared)
• 2-second timer (available on almost every camera)

If your camera supports mobile app control (like Canon Camera Connect (iOS/Android), Nikon SnapBridge (iOS/Android), Sony Imaging Edge (iOS/Android), it’s a total game-changer. You can control your camera right from your phone and see exactly what you're shooting!

Fireworks alone are just abstract lights. A great photo tells a story: it has emotion and atmosphere. That’s why I always look for composition elements that give my shots meaning.

When photographing fireworks, I often include:

• Buildings – Churches, towers, or old structures make it clear where the action is.
• People – Silhouettes of crowds or faces lit up by the explosions add life.
• Water – Lakes, rivers, or even puddles create stunning reflections.
• Frames – Shoot through arches, trees, or windows to add depth.

Fireworks are perfect for experiments! Here are cool tricks I've tested that really work:

• Zoom during exposure – Rotate the zoom ring after opening the shutter to create explosive light trails. Technically hard but stunning!
• ND filter – Helps at dusk or with city lights, allowing 10+ second exposures without overexposure.
• Double exposure – Shoot people first, then fireworks (or vice versa) for magical layered moments.

As one of the best night photo ideas, fireworks look best when shot right, but even after shooting, you can add some special flavor. For quick edits, I use Lightroom or Camera Raw.

What I do:

• Brighten shadows to show what's in front (people, water, buildings).
• Deepen blacks so the sky looks more dramatic.
• Manually adjust white balance (auto often makes shots too warm or green).
• Use Clarity/Texture carefully to enhance explosions without overdoing it.
• Often use HSL to mute background colors and highlight the fireworks.

When photographing fireworks at night, novices don’t always consider weather conditions.

Rain

• Use a rain cover or even a hood to protect your camera from rain. I bought a cheap silicone sleeve from AliExpress and always keep a microfiber cloth in my pocket.
• Store spare clothes/fabric in a waterproof bag.

Fog or Smoke

• Shoot early – the first 5 minutes are clearest. The sky quickly gets dull.
• Stand upwind – let the breeze blow smoke away from you.

Wind

• Stabilize it: hang your backpack on the hook or press down on the legs with your feet.
• If the wind is strong, hide behind a building/wall or lower the tripod for better balance.

Smartphone cameras struggle in the dark, constantly refocusing and adjusting brightness with each explosion. The result? Blurry, overexposed, or too-dark shots.

To fix this, I always lock focus and exposure manually:

How to do it:

1. Open your iPhone Camera
2. Aim where fireworks will appear (usually above the horizon)
3. Tap & hold that spot for 1-2 seconds until "AE/AF LOCK" appears
4. Slide up/down to adjust brightness manually

Best for: Capturing everything in your shot - the fireworks in the sky, the landscape below, people watching, water reflections, and buildings - you'll want a wide-angle lens. This works best when you're near the fireworks launch area or want to include famous landmarks and crowds in your photo. You'll get breathtaking “sky packed with fireworks” pictures and ideal symmetrical compositions showing reflections in water or architecture when using 14mm or 20mm lenses.

Best for: This lens gives me perfectly composed shots with crisp details and little distortion. It's my favorite choice when I'm shooting from a middle distance - sharp firework trails with just enough background context, like excited crowds beneath the explosions.

Best for: When you can't get close to the action or want simple, powerful images of just the fireworks themselves, this lens is ideal. It removes all distractions from your shots, letting the colorful explosions stay in focus. Perfect for getting crisp explosion details that blend beautifully when combined later.

Get free firework overlays to jazz up your wedding or other photos with multi-colored spectacular explosions! These ready-to-use PNG files let you add amazing fireworks in seconds using Photoshop, Creative Cloud, GIMP, or Paint Shop Pro.